"Heros and Thieves" 5.10 b/c

Yesterday Bob Ahearn and I met at 10:00 a.m. To check out a route that I had spotted some years ago and actually rehearsed with my friend Dave Penny. It is located on an upper wall (central) of Humphrey's Ledge next to a terribly dirty corner and first pitch of Dedication (5.7+).

Warning: the information below is route beta!!!

The route ascends a steep and thin seam to shallow horizontal holds, up through a face and then finishes on a steep section of corners. The route itself is slightly overhanging and very pumpy. The route could have gone with natural pro, but the pro was not good and we tried to figure out if it could go with small wires and cams, but the wires kept popping, and any gear that we could place, seemed unsafe, so the route will go mixed...50' with 3 bolts.

There are two distinct cruxes and the first is after the opening move up to a bolt roughly 12' of the ground to protect the crux move. Once the bolt is clipped, you make a dyno/deadpoint to a handhold out right and then quickly make another dynamic move up with the left hand to a sidepull and horizontal for the right. We found a shallow pocket for a metolious #00 that seems ok that protects the tricky and slightly overhanging traverse out to the left.

The traverse takes you to some beautiful holds where you can get a bit of a shake, but it is not comfortable... not a true rest really. You then make a careful move up and clip the second, then step back down for a shake as the clip is a bit pumpy. Once the forearms are good, you launch into the steep face on crimpy little edges and face holds and make a powerful move straight up to a big shelf with a deep horizontal crack...somewhat remeniscent of the Gunks! (Cams from #1-#3 can be placed at various sections of the crack).

Once you mantle up onto the shelf (balancey), you can find another placement in the first corner that you encounter. You then make 3-4 moves up and make a clip out left that protects you from another tricky move on a high sidepull/layback with sloping feet up to a good hold out right. Another 8'-10' takes you to the anchors!

I have not yet done the first ascent as it was getting late. The route took about 5 hours to rehearse, clean, mark for fixed protection, consult with my partner and a few other climbers that happened to be there that day. The general consensus was that the route was a good 10c/d, and that the gear was just right...not some grid bolted nightmare and inkeeping with local ethics for the most part. We will see...