1977 Kawasaki kz650 Project bike

I couldn't figure out how to resize this photo, but if you click on it you will get the "Full Effect" of the condition of the bike when I purchased it. It didn't run, and looked quite funky with the red seat and rust!!!

I replaced the seat with an original seat, cleaned the carbs, rejetted the carbs, new gaskets, new "O-rings", new needles, new air filter, fuel filter, oil, fuel, plugs, bench tested the coils, new air box boots and brand new manifold/carb holders. I rattle canned the side covers first with a clear coat primer, an undercoat of purple, and two top coats of a metallic blue. It isn't perfect, but for under $20 I think the look is pretty good! And...this bike is Fast!!! 

"Sadie"

This is the newest addition to the Graham family! Meet "Sadie", a 7 month old Yellow Lab/Hound mix. She is as sweet as she looks and very well mannered. Her favorite thing to do is to lean into you and give kisses. More pics to follow...

Acadia Trip

We took a week this year (the last week of June), packed up the tent, provisions and diapers and headed down East to Acadia National Park. For those of you living in New England, I am sure you all can recall the three weeks of rain that we experienced...the first of it beginning on the day we left for the coast. Basically, it rained the entire time we were there, the bugs were nasty and the temps dipped at night keeping the trip at a "close to intolerable" level. 

The night before we were supposed to leave, we discovered that Lizzie's toys in her pack&play were floating...upon a more careful inspection of the corners of the tent...we discovered those too had been compromised and our shelter had been reduced to little more than a seive!!!

Fortunately this happened at 10:30PM while everyone was trying to get to sleep with the pouring rain, high winds and cold temperatures!!! We grabbed both girls and ran through the woods, up some low angled slabs, and jumped the low lying bushes and got them strapped into the truck. Kerin and I grabbed the headlamps and back through the woods we went. We broke down the tarps, rolled up sleeping bags, packed food, rain fly, tents and stoves and were back at the truck...fully packed, entirely drenched and laughing about our good fortune!!

Despite the rains however there were some bright spots to our trip...one was the popovers with freshly churned butter and homemade strawberry Jam at the Jordan House. We clocked in about 15 miles on a bikeride around Eagle Lake and points beyond, caught crabs at the dock, swam in the tidal pools at sand beach, and discovered just how hardy our two little girls are. They are truly amazing!!

The night we got back to North Conway, I was tucking Emma into bed and she rolled over to face me as I was rubbing her back...she leaned over, put her arms around my neck and gave me a huge bear hug and said "Papa...that was the BEST vacation I have ever had". I am still smiling..

Retreating in the middle of the night!!!

"You don't eat Dragons Papa"

                               The graham girls showing off Emma's catch of the day!!

Emma's perfect Sand Dollar!

Lizzy catching "Dragons"

Just before the big wave came and soaked us all!!!

I can't feel my feet Papa!!!

Just before we got the tour of the Stables!

HS Hall of Fame Award

On June 6th, I was given the great honor of accepting an award that means a great deal to me. I was inducted into the Tilton School Hall of Fame in front of fellow classmates, best friends, and my family. This was truly one of my proudest moments and feel both humbled and blessed by the nomination. Here are a few shots of the day: (*note: it was Kerin's birthday as well and was such a great sport allowing me to share some of the spotlight on her special day)

The stunningly beautiful Graham ladies...

Coach Ken Hollingsworth speaks on behalf of the inductees

A heartfelt embrace as we go back a few years!

Coach "H" and I proudly displaying the plaque that will hang in the MARC Athletic Center.

The Glory Days...

Well, I recently celebrated my 25th high school reunion (this past weekend, June 6th) and was also inducted into my HS Hall of Fame later that afternoon in the Fred Smart Chapel; a building that I spent many hours daydreaming in as a student. It was also my wife Kerin’s birthday, so it was quite a mixed bag of nuts…so to speak.

I was very overwhelmed by the significance of the day and it gave me real pause to reflect on my time at Tilton School as a student and what those years meant to me. I guess I had forgotten how special those days were and how caught up I was with everything going on around me that I never truly took the time to look around and appreciate that point in my life…while I was living it.

Upon arriving at the house that evening, I was overcome with sadness that I couldn’t explain other than the feeling you get when you look your own mortality in the face; and for a moment longed to have those days back. I thought about the decisions that I might have changed the words I wished I could have said or taken back, and the youth and vitality that meant so much to me…and truly was what I used to define who I was at the time. These were not regrets mind you; no…these were simply wishes to have back that youthful mind, body and spirit that is so often wasted on the young.

Like Father Like Son...

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to share the afternoon with my son Bolton (age 15). We saw a break in the weather and decided to try to climb a pitch or two at Humphrey's Ledge in Bartlett.

We loaded up the car, cleaned the shoes, packed the rack and were there in less than 15 minutes with the sun shining brighly and only a few clouds drifting around the cobalt blue sky. We hiked in, geared up and went over all the commands and spent some time talking about the basic procedures of multi-pitch climbing.

Once we felt that we were on the same page, we laced them up and off we went. This was Bo's first time cleaning "trad" gear from the cracks, and would also mark Bo's first time rappelling by himself. Needless to say, a very fun day marked by a few proud moments for Dad!!!


Looking down the first pitch of "Dedication Corner", Humphrey's Ledge!

Bolton gearing up for the follow...

Bolton moving smoothly up through the crux!

Bo looking confident!

Bolton getting anchored in at the top of the first pitch. Blue skies abound....

Bolton "Rapping" off the route, much to the angst of Dad below!

In the News

http://www.wmur.com/news/19485532/detail.html

Wild Fire Race

Here are a few shots of the "Wild Fire" Race that team "In-Laws and Out-Laws"participated in last weekend. We didn't win, we didn't come in last...but we DID have a blast!!! The middle of the pack never felt so good!!!

You can click on the photos to enlarge!

Team "In-Laws & Out-Laws" 2009

Sherry, Nik, John, Kate, Emma, Kerin, Chris, Lizzy, Sally and Ralph

Nik, John, Kate, Kerin and Chris

"Sistahs"

What is this guy doing in the water???

More pics of the route!

She Goes!

Placing gear on "Heros and Thieves" - 5.10b/c, Humphrey's Ledge

I had a very exciting afternoon today. I was scheduled to pick up some art work at Plymouth State University after school. I checked my email before leaving the building to discover that the guy that I was supposed to meet had not returned my email confirming our meeting so I called him only to find that he was thinking Friday!!! One door closes...another one opens.

So, I quickly ran back upstairs and emailed Dave Penny who was skiing at Wildcat. The message basically said, meet me at Humphrey's (Ledge) at 4:00...I got an immediate response that said "see you there"! We're on!

To put this whole story in perspective, it was Dave and I a year ago that went out to check out this moss and lichen covered wall, but we both saw the potential that we knew it hid. We did some route rehearsing but it was late in the season, and before I could get the route developed, the snows had blanketed the northeast and I knew the must wait another year.

My palms sweat as I made the drive home to quickly grab my gear. "Could this be the day"? I thought to myself. It was one week ago that we placed the three bolts on the route. Doubts began to flood my mind. Could I even climb this thing? Had it been done before? Will the route be worthy? Will someone come along and chop it? You get the picture...

The sun was shining on the Main cliff as I turned the corner on West Side road, and all I could think about was how badly I wanted to send this route. The nervousness that I felt was excitement and not fear or self doubt. It had been years since I last felt these emotions before a climb and I knew that all was good. "I'm sending this thing".

We quickly geared up, I stretched the neck and shoulders, stretched the legs and took some deep breaths. "On belay" Dave said..."Climbing" I returned and before I knew it, I was stretching for the first bolt. I clipped in, gathered myself, walked the feet as high as I could and shot for the crux hold. I felt my fingers curl over the stone's edge as my feet cut loose. Once my fingers closed my motion settled and all was good. "Got it". The next few moves were tricky and I placed a #00 TCU and quickly clipped in. I edged my way out left on a balancy shelf to good holds and a shake.

I made the move up to the next bolt, stepped up and clipped...."one more move and this thing is over" I thought as I chalked my hands and prepared for the second crux. Right hand up to the thin horizontal and left up to the side pull...right foot up...and I shot up for the shelf. I stuck the hold and quickly plugged a #1.5 camalot in the horizontal...shook out and up I continued...two more pieces...the third bolt...up to the exit....plugged in a blue Alien and I could see the tree ledge. Before I knew it, I was calling "Off Belay" to Dave below. Laszarus had fallen and I hadn't a care in the world...

.

Making friends with Pain...

I was recently diagnosed with a degenerative bone disease called Cervical Spondylosis:

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/cervical-spondylosis/DS00697

My doctor seemed to think that my condition is not a hereditary one, but was brought on by an injury or overuse. As we talked about injuries (of which I had one playing college football), the background didn't seem to jive; so as we dug deeper, the conversation led to climbing...specifically belaying when the neck is craned up while watching the leader. When I lived in CT, I would spend 3-5 hours in the gym, 3-4 days a week working out, bouldering, climbing and belaying and I remember vividly the neck pain that resulted from sessions at the gym spotting and belaying my partners as they worked routes.

Just an FYI and a warning to take care of yourselves out there. At the first sign of neck pain, adjust yourself and neck so that you are no longer putting pressure on the base of your neck (C7-T1). Stretch the neck regularly and stay hydrated.

I am 43 years young and last year was one of the best years I have had climbing and felt as strong as I ever have...until this struck me in late August (I assumed I pulled a muscle which in turn pulled my spine out of alignment). I was sadly mistaken...

I won't allow this to slow me down, but the thought of making friends with this pain sends my spirit into the dumps from time to time...I guess it is normal whenever we are faced with our own mortality. Moral of the story: Take care of yourselves and climb strong

"Heros and Thieves" 5.10 b/c

Yesterday Bob Ahearn and I met at 10:00 a.m. To check out a route that I had spotted some years ago and actually rehearsed with my friend Dave Penny. It is located on an upper wall (central) of Humphrey's Ledge next to a terribly dirty corner and first pitch of Dedication (5.7+).

Warning: the information below is route beta!!!

The route ascends a steep and thin seam to shallow horizontal holds, up through a face and then finishes on a steep section of corners. The route itself is slightly overhanging and very pumpy. The route could have gone with natural pro, but the pro was not good and we tried to figure out if it could go with small wires and cams, but the wires kept popping, and any gear that we could place, seemed unsafe, so the route will go mixed...50' with 3 bolts.

There are two distinct cruxes and the first is after the opening move up to a bolt roughly 12' of the ground to protect the crux move. Once the bolt is clipped, you make a dyno/deadpoint to a handhold out right and then quickly make another dynamic move up with the left hand to a sidepull and horizontal for the right. We found a shallow pocket for a metolious #00 that seems ok that protects the tricky and slightly overhanging traverse out to the left.

The traverse takes you to some beautiful holds where you can get a bit of a shake, but it is not comfortable... not a true rest really. You then make a careful move up and clip the second, then step back down for a shake as the clip is a bit pumpy. Once the forearms are good, you launch into the steep face on crimpy little edges and face holds and make a powerful move straight up to a big shelf with a deep horizontal crack...somewhat remeniscent of the Gunks! (Cams from #1-#3 can be placed at various sections of the crack).

Once you mantle up onto the shelf (balancey), you can find another placement in the first corner that you encounter. You then make 3-4 moves up and make a clip out left that protects you from another tricky move on a high sidepull/layback with sloping feet up to a good hold out right. Another 8'-10' takes you to the anchors!

I have not yet done the first ascent as it was getting late. The route took about 5 hours to rehearse, clean, mark for fixed protection, consult with my partner and a few other climbers that happened to be there that day. The general consensus was that the route was a good 10c/d, and that the gear was just right...not some grid bolted nightmare and inkeeping with local ethics for the most part. We will see...

Partners

The author and his partner Bob Ahearn enjoying a cold but sunny day cruis'n the Upper East Face Slabs on Mount Willard, Crawford Notch, New Hampshire.

There is no question that climbing has been one of the most powerful passions in my life over the past 20+ years, and I was thinking the other day about all the road trips, expeditions, foreign countries and close calls that have made up my climbing career. But despite all the adventures, training, planning and the physical act of climbing, the one thing that I always remember are the people that I have shared these experiences with and the close bond that is made with a partner.

A partnership in climbing goes well beyond what would be considered a typical friendship. You need to be able to depend on this person with your life. They must be focused, share the same goals, climb at a similar level, be comfortable with the systems and how to escape them, understand how to feel your every move through the touch of the rope, and have thick enough skin not to take suggestions or criticisms shouted at them (on a cramped bivy while snow is pouring down one's back), personally. A tall order to fill by most standards, but these are the qualities that are needed when undertaking such a sport as the one we have chosen.

The realationship between partners would be easy enough if everything went as planned, but for those of us who climb, events rarely unfold without a hitch in this sport and often we are left with just our instincts and experience to guide us through some "undesireable" situations. It is these times that not only test our metal as climbers, but test our relationships as dependable partners as well. There is a saying that "adversity breeds character", but in the world of climbing, adversity has been the death knoll for even the closest of partnerships.

In my experience, climbing experience is just a small ingredient in the make-up of a bond that will stand the test of time. No doubt chemistry, that unknown element, plays a greater role when the proverbial "crap hits the fan". It goes back to a deeper understanding of the person, his or her limitations and of course his or her strengths and the confidence that the person on the other end of the rope is as willing to do what it takes to get things done.

Mark Twight, does a great job getting into greater detail of the attributes of a successful, productive and healthy partnership in his book: "Extreme Alpinism", pp 150-153. He also talks a little bit about his climbing encounter with a new partner, Michel Fouquet on a new route on Khan Tengri. Despite similar resumes, endurance and techical skills, the two rubbed each others nerves right out of the gate and proved to be a disasterous experience for the two of them. Despite their similarities on paper, the partnership was doomed from the start, the chemistry and lack of common vision created a chasm that even the best of climbers could not overcome. Moral of the story: A good partner is not to be taken for granted!

After years of climbing it is truly magic when one finds that one, two or even three partners that one shares that connection with. When I look back on all those experiences, it is the people who I shared them with that truly made the adventure what is was. I see those faces smiling back at me, I see the looks of anxiety, I hear the voices, the laughter and the exhaustion. I feel the knee in my back as I roll over in my sleeping bag, and taste the coffee on those bitter cold days when a hot cup of coffee is a greater gift than a 15% raise.I remember those embraces at the summit, and the understanding look afterward that we are only half way through our experience.

All these memories I will cherish and all those who I have shared them with will forever be with me. Climbs end, and when the gear is packed away, and the peaks dissapear under the clouds as the plane sores to the next destination, its the friendships that remain...

Here is the movie that accompanies the photos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fG2nY06T2g

Hanging up the tools...

My son Bolton poses for the camera after sending my project in the woods (WI 3+/4-)

Well, after looking at the weather forecast for the next couple of weeks, it seems like a reasonable call to officially call it quits on the ice season and start to prepare myself both physically and mentally for the rock season.

One would think that this transition between the two seasons would be an easy one, but it is not neccessarily so. Despite the similarities of the two sports, both sports offer their own sets of challenges, physical conditioning, systems and frame of mind.

Physically, I need to shed the winter "insulation" (roughly 5-7 lbs) to get back into my peak rock climbing form. I tend to allow myself a few extra pounds over the winter so that I may stay warmer and more comfortable in the severe cold that New England winters bring. So what was once considered a positive (namely my spare tire), is now a hindrance as I start to prepare for the upcoming rock season.

I will give myself 90 days and that should do it; it gets me to June so I should have 4-5 months of good climbing left to attempt the harder climbs that I have on my tic list. More to follow...

More pics from Huntington's Ravine

Here are a few more pictures of our trip up into Huntington Ravine. The plan was to tackle Pinnacle Gully, but after arriving at the ravine floor at 7:00AM and finding 5 people already working their way up the fan to the base of the climb (look carefully and you can count 10 people in the photo below!!!) , we fell back on Plan B..."North Gully". We had warm temps, 8 pitches of ice and snow, the entire rim of the Ravine to navigate after topping out, a storm on the way, and a couple of cold Moat Mountain Brewery's finest waiting for us.


We topped out at 10:30AM and thus began our long trek accross the garden to the escape hatch which we quickly glissaded in 15 minutes. Yah...we dropped over 1000 feet in 15 minutes which saw us to the car at 1:25 and at the Moat at 1:45!!! Again....does it get any better than this???

After the Glissade nearing the ravine floor!

North Gully is the steep line just to the right of the longest line you can see in the center of the photo. If you look real hard you can see the first pitch (crux) on the right. The route then shoots up and to the right.

Bob Ahearn grabbing a little nourishment after the final push to the summit ridge. Enjoying the morning sun and great views!

This is my new Cilogear 40B Worksack on its shakedown trip. Thus far, I couldn't be more pleased with how it has performed. Check back in a week or two to read my full review!

Bob styl'n the second pitch of North Gully.

If you look closely, you can count ten climbers on Pinnacle (route in the center of the photo). Don't forget to look right! Click on the image to enlarge.

Me at the pin anchors at the top of the first pitch of "North".

So close, yet so far away!!


The sun rises up to great us as the clouds slowy lift from the valley floor. It was as quiet and peaceful as it looks.

North Gully

Climbed North Gully today




The Author contemplating the next move up the Crux section of North Gully's first pitch.

Dalai Lama comes to New England

I just scored some tickets for the Dalai Lama's presentation at Gillette Stadium in Foxboro or Saturday, May 2nd. You can check it out at this link:

www.bostontibet.org.

Hope to see you all there. all procedes go toward supporting the Tibetan Heritage Center.

Winter is dying

Well the writing seems to be on the wall. Temperatures this morning were already in the mid-30's, it rained all last night, and I woke to fog and drizzle with an anticipated high of mid-low 50's as the fog gives way to sunshine. It is hard to deny that spring is on its way.

Spring is my favorite time of year. The earth smells fresh, the rivers begin to run and open up, the moose return to the roadsides, buds begin to bloom and green begins to replace the dreary winter pallette of greys and browns. But, despite the feeling of "re-birth" that the spring brings, comes a feeling of sadness that yet another season of ice and snow has passed. For those of us who climb ice, it truly is a mixed feeling of joy and loss.

So this weekend, I am left to choose either that last remaining ice in some of the most hidden out of the way gullies or ravines, or hang the tools up and lace up the sticky rubber shoes and climb one of the many south facing crags to begin, what I hope, will be an exciting and fun rock season.

Come to think of it....I choose "both"!!!

O'Dell's Trip Report (3/21/09)

That's us in the lower right hand corner of the photo, starting up the first pitch of ice on Odell's. Dan is just visible in the rocks about 45 degrees down from me on the right!



We couldn't have asked for a better day than the one that met us on Saturday morning at 5:00AM as I rolled over to turn the alarm off. The sun was not yet out, but the sky was clear and the stars were still out dotting the sky in crystaline white and blue flecks. The trees were still, and the tempurature was holding at 29 degrees. "This is going to be a good one" I said to myself as I poured hot water into my oatmeal and dropped a slice of bread into the toaster. The truth of the matter is that I had no idea just how perfect conditions were going to be for our attempt at Pinnacle Gully, one of Huntington Ravines prized jewels!

I met Dan at ten of six and he loaded his pack in my car and we were on the road on time and psyched for the climb that lay ahead. We arrived at the AMC Pinkham Notch Camp Visitors Center at 6:20AM. We filled water bottles, I bought a couple extra packets of GU, signed the register with our itinerary and we were on trail by 6:50AM.

The hike was quick and we saved some time by taking the huntington ravine trail cut-off. It can be a nightmare after fresh snow and can actually add time with all the post holing, etc...but we were on it early and tempertatures the night before were in the single digits, so the snow was hard packed and the going very enjoyable.

When we arrived at the base of the Ravine we noticed two figures working their way up to the top of the fan trending toward Pinnacle. Dan and I waited to see if they might break left for Odell's, or continue up and right toward Central Gully; but unfortunately, they did neither and headed straight for Pinnacle. Looked like Pinnacle was a "no go" this time!

The ice on Odell's was blue and fat and so Dan and I decided that "Plan B" was going to be just fine and so we dropped our packs, donned our helmets, harnesses and tools and headed up the fan. We found ourselves at the base of Odell's Gully about 20 minutes later looking up at the bluest ice I have ever seen.

The first pitch went well and I established a pretty bomber anchor with two 22cm screws. The ice was steep with little oportunity for a stance, and thus the anchor was a semi-hanging belay. The sun was beating down on us now and I had concerns about the screws melting out, but Dan's second was quick and he arrived at the anchor in good speed. We quickly re-geared and out I went up the steepest section of ice we would encounter all day.

After pulling the over the buldge, I discovered about 600-700 feet of steep snow climbing to the summit ridge with little to no protection to speak of. I worked my way right to the rock butress to hopefully find something to sling, but it was to no avail. I cleared as much snow away with my tools as I could, buried the picks in good ice, covered the tools with the wet sticky snow that was on top, clipped a couple biners through the handles of my tools and equalized them as best as I could with a cordalette. I kicked two deep platforms for my feet, leaned into the angle of the slope, belayed from my waist, and prayed for "no falls". Before long, Dan was clipping into the anchor and off we went simul-climbing some of the most tiring conditions I have experienced up there.

Two hours later we found ourselves on top of the sun drenched alpine garden, with just a wisp of a breeze, forty degrees and bluebird skies. It was one of the most incredible days I have experienced up there in my 20+ years of climbing.

After a quick lunch, we packed up and headed down a very busy Lion's Head trail. We found ourselves back at the PNC Lodge at 2:45 and signed out in the log book. Looking back over my shoulder I could do nothing but smile and rub my aching quads. Another great day on the "rockpile" with great ice, perfect weather conditions and another successful trip behind us. Does it get any better than that?

*This entry dedicated to the memory of Travis Matthew Lizotte of Aspen, Colorado, 25, who died Sunday while scaling 11,411-foot (3,480-meter) Mount Tronador in Argentina's Nahuel Huapi National Park.

A short one today. I am just thinking about our climb tomorrow (Pinnacle Gully, Huntington's Ravine WI3 III) and am going through that mental checklist of what I will have to bring to go both light and safe. The funny thing about Mount Washington, as the locals know, she is a mountain never to be underestimated...and for those that do underestimate the seriousness of this mountain, there is a list of names at the Pinkham Notch Visitors Center to view and learn from.

Despite the weather forcast for tomorrow (40 degrees and sunny), I still need to think worst case scenario so that should something go wrong, both my partner Dan and I are protected. We plan on doing either Pinnacle or O'dell's Gully respectively and hope to do the round trip in 5-6 hours...it will be a push, but I am sure that we can do it with an Alpine start.

This is the time of year that my mind starts to think about the rock season and so the gullies on Mount Washington mark the end of ice for me as they are typically my last climbs before I hang the tools up and pull out the sticky rubber and trad gear.

I always have mixed feelings about this time of year as it represents another season gone by, another year older and I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up; but I still look to these mountains with the same amount of awe and inspiration that I did when I hadn't taken so many trips around the sun!!